Royal Palace of Madrid
The largest palace in Western Europe — 2,800 rooms of Baroque and Rococo splendor, though only 50 are open to the public. The Royal Armory, the throne room with its silver and crimson, the Royal Chapel, and the new Royal Collections gallery displaying Spain's royal art and objects. Walk the grand courtyard afterward and look across at the Almudena Cathedral next door. Scale and opulence that's hard to process.

Plaza Mayor + Mercado de San Miguel
Five minutes from the palace. Stand in the 17th-century Plaza Mayor — uniformly beautiful, perfectly proportioned. Then step into the 1916 iron-and-glass market next door for vermouth and pintxos. The market is touristy but excellent — olives, jamón, croquetas, anchovies from Cantabria. Eat standing at the bar.

Lunch near the Prado
Rooftop lunch at Restaurante Palacio de Cibeles — the city hall rooftop, Plaza de Cibeles. Views over Madrid's great central fountain, the Retiro park, and the Paseo del Arte stretching south. The menú del día is always good value. Alternatively, Estado Puro — a modern tapas bar steps from the Prado entrance. Either way, settle in and eat well.

Museo del Prado
Spain's greatest museum and one of the finest in the world. The Paseo del Arte pass gets us in fast. Don't try to do everything — that's how Prado fatigue kills the visit. Focus: Velázquez's Las Meninas, Goya's Black Paintings in the Sala Goya, Hieronymus Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights, and the Flemish masters. Two hours. Then stop. Let it settle.

Real Jardín Botánico
Steps from the Prado's south exit — 5,000 plant species in a beautifully maintained 18th-century garden. The perfect decompression after two hours of intense art. Roses, Mediterranean herbs, ancient trees. Walk slowly.

Puerta del Sol
Spain's geographic center — the zero-kilometer marker from which all Spanish roads are measured. The bear and strawberry tree statue (Madrid's symbol). The clock tower that rings in every Spanish New Year. Chaotic and alive at this hour. A quick stop and then south toward the Literary Quarter.
Dinner at Bodega de los Secretos
Calle de San Blas 4, beneath the Literary Quarter. A 17th-century wine cellar that has been underground since the Habsburg era — brick-vaulted alcoves, candlelight, the faint smell of old stone. The most romantic restaurant of the entire trip. Elevated Spanish cuisine: jamón ibérico, bacalao, suckling pig, excellent wine list. The kind of dinner that you'll still be talking about years later.
